Kodachadri on wheels

An ambitious decision to start the New Year early saw me flipping through newspapers at 6 am in search of active travel ideas. Buried in the throng of announcements for exhibitions, concerts and food festivals was a write-up about Tandem Trails’ bicycling trip to Kodachadri in Shimoga district. The promise of a new mode of travel to a hitherto unexplored place with a group of strangers piqued my interest and got my New Year resolution to the perfect start! The 90km ride in the Western Ghats over two days was an attractive dare to my stamina, fitness and my gluteal muscles – how could I back off this challenge?

The name Shimoga refers to Shiv-mukha or the face of Shiva. An alternate etymology suggests Sihi-moge or sweet pot. Regardless of origin, Shimoga is known as the cultural capital of Karnataka – the emphasis on education and cultural activities (Yakshagaana) has brought out some of the best known jewels in Kannada literature in the form of national poet Kuvempu, film-maker Girish Kasaravalli and Padma Bhushan awardee and writer U.R. Ananthamurthy. A higher-than-average rate of literacy among both men and women in the district is indicative of its progressive attitude towards gender equality.

 

Three weeks later we left Bangalore on a nippy Friday evening bundled into a Tempo traveler, which had our bicycles mounted on top. The destination was Simha farms – a homestay in Nittur, located 350km from Bangalore. At 6:30 the next morning I was all but ready to rest my bleary eyes and weary body but the luxury of sleep was to be denied as my metallic black Trek 3700 mountain bicycle beckoned with its heartening/depressing 21-speed gears and inadequately sized saddle - ouch! Tandem trails has cleverly chosen this homestay which is located on a hillock – clever because the initial descent on our bicycles deceives the lungs and the spirit by promising an exhilarating and easy ride.

 

We set off to cover the 50-km stretch that would end in a short trek to a small cascade deep in the forest. The cold air in my lungs thaws out as the illusion of descents disappears quickly but the first 10 km from Nittur to Nagodi village were relatively flat allowing me to appreciate the unraveling landscape. It was easy to forget the kilometers I had ratcheted up and the lactic acid rapidly accumulating in my quadriceps. I cycled past charming villages fragrant with rising wood smoke; little boys and girls skipping merrily to school in checked outfits with a tie missing here and a shoe lace missing there; and secluded wooded thickets whose silence was broken only by the crunch of leaves under the cycle tires.

After a pit stop at Nagodi village, our next halt was at Sulalli – 20 km away. Despite being exhausting, this next stretch offered unobstructed views of hills, dales and paddy fields and a feeling comparable to a runner’s high. The trail was shady and covered for the most part which made riding more enjoyable. At noon I hit the 35km mark and there were still 14 km to go – it was hot and dry and dusty and the Tavera following us was tempting – should I fake a sprain and get a ride for the next 14 km? But the cry of school children running next to me and shouting “Aunty, cycle maadi, cycle maadi” made me drop all intentions of deception. 

The welcome sight of the white building which signaled the end of the ride for the day was enhanced by the aroma of rice and sambar which had been spread out for us under a huge canopy. I collapsed on the mat too tired to even eat. But the tiredness came with a joyous realization that anything from here was only going to be easier!

After lunch the 10 km roundtrip trek in the dense jungle to reach Boodhlagundi falls, cascading from a height of about 100 feet, was a delightful relief for sore saddles and parched throats. This easy trek is flat in most parts with small ascents and descent. Only the last stretch of a few hundred meters involves a steep descent to reach the falls. A dip in the cool water refreshed us enough to be able to trek back and cram into the Tempo travelers and Tavera waiting for us at the road.

At dawn the next day, we were saddled up and ready to ride the 15km to Hasirumakki (backwaters of Sharavathi river) to catch the ferry at 9am. This would put us 35 km from Ikkeri – our destination and home to a 500-year old temple. The narrow, winding roads took us past verdant paddy fields, lily-covered ponds, arecanut trees and traditional homes with their sloping terracotta roofs designed to keep the interiors cool. 

It was an uneventful ride to the launch at Hasirumakki but perhaps to compensate, the arrival of the ferry caused so much confusion (because of the cars that had to get off and on) that only half of us were able to board it with our bicycles while the other half was stranded on the bank. On the other bank, we thought it wiser to continue cycling instead of waiting idly for 15 minutes for the rest to catch up. It was one of those pleasant, leisurely rides that allow us to catch our breath and take in the rustic nature of the surroundings. After all, the toughest day was behind us now!

 






Ikkeri is situated a few km from Sagara but seems so far removed from the bustling town’s affectations that it could well have been a few thousand km away. The pride and joy of Ikkeri is the temple of Aghoreshvara (one of several names for Lord Shiva), built by the Keladi Nayakas. The atmosphere around the temple is undisturbed and quiet unlike typical South Indian temples that clamour with devotees and priests.

A granite gateway forms part of the entrance to the temple complex which is located squat in the middle of a vast court. Once inside the well-maintained complex, a small shrine occupied by a black granite statue of Nandi greets and astounds you with its monolithic size, fine intricacy in carving and glossy finish. Behind the small Nandi shrine lies the main temple building housing the sanctum sanctorum with the Shivalinga. On the side walls are large carvings of other deities like Ganesha and Subrahmanya. There are several pillars carved with the images of other deities but the most amazing feature is that each pillar is carved in a different style.

In the cool silence of the temple, I found the grandeur and majesty imposing and humbling – to think that artisans several hundreds of years back were capable of building this structure without the use of any machinery but as soon as I left the temple complex all my humility evaporated in the hot afternoon sun, and in its place spread a glow of pride. I had ridden 90km and trekked 10km over two days and not a single muscle was complaining!