To the curious traveller who looks beyond the well-trodden pilgrimage path, Uttarakhand has more to offer than just holy rivers and saffron-clad yogis. We were such atypical travellers seeking peace not through salvation but through solitude. Beyond the veil of prominent temples adorned with brightly coloured flags and the constant din of chants and bells, Uttarakhand offers myriad avenues for trekking, river rafting, and other adventure activities.
In the monsoon month of August we decided to explore a few relatively lesser known spots in Uttarakhand that are accessible only by foot. We arrived in Uttarkashi after a 6-hour drive from Haridwar, weary of the heat in the plains. However, our tanks of enthusiasm and anticipation were soon replenished after we settled into our hotel, facing the turbid Bhagirathi river, and dived into a hearty lunch. We had planned the 5-day trek with Uttarkashi as the starting point and the following route: Barsu – Dayyara bugyal – Gangoroo – Manjhi – Dodi Tal – Agoda – Sangamchatti. The places in bold refer to our overnight camp sites.
Dawn arrived with a crispness that instilled sharp energy in us and we piled into a noisy Sumo to get to Barsu. The ride up to Barsu was jaw-droppingly scenic as sheer slopes dropped down to the roaring Bhagirathi and neat settlements dotted lush green hillsides. Barsu is a small, quiet village whose inhabitants are used to seeing travellers on the move, never stopping there. Our porters had not arrived yet, so this unintended stop gave us time to explore Barsu itself. The village had such a freshly washed vibrancy around that greenery seemed to be growing out of even cement and concrete.
Once the porters were strapped up with luggage for the 5-day trek, we started hiking up a concrete path – apparently built to ease hikers in. We made an imposing group – three trekkers, six porters, two guides and two cooks. A few puzzled Garhwali kids wondered why we were taking such pains to climb hills for pleasure!
Dayyara bugyal:
We had to scale 1200m by the end of the day to reach an altitude of 3200m so it was a steep, uphill walk for most of the day. I could feel my lungs expand as I took in as much mountain air as possible while using up every ounce of oxygen I breathed in. Luckily for us, the hiking path was sheltered from the sun and wind by tall, graceful fir and spruce trees and so we never felt the heat of the day. The earth was moist and fragrant and to prevent slipping we made our own trekking poles out of fallen branches. As the day wore on, the initial euphoria dissipated like the sweat off our backs and we were longing for luxuries such as lunch and rest!
We reached Dayyara after 8km of uphill trekking and we could not have been happier! The bugyal (which means meadow in Hindi) lived up to its name and presented us endless slopes of grassy pastures that were a treat to the eye; unspoiled in their beauty, unknown to most. The feel of fresh, wet grass speckled with tiny yellow, blue, pink, and violet flowers between our toes was as rejuvenating as the first drops of monsoon rain after a hot summer. We missed the peak floral bloom by ten days but this meant that we also missed the crowds.
Traditionally, gujjars (highland nomads) live here during summer to graze livestock on nutrient-rich grass. They also make a small amount of money by renting out huts with mattresses to trekkers. However, since we had our own tents and sleeping bags, we had to forgo the luxury of dry mattresses. Gujjars have practically no access to healthcare in summer when they take to the highlands so, it is a good idea to carry extra medicines such as crocin and painkillers to offer them.
Daybreak was viciously cold with temperatures hovering around -2 deg Celsius, much to our annoyance, but the view of the snow-capped peak of Bandar Poonch and sister peaks drove all our discomfort away. Sun rays skimmed jagged Himalayan peaks and unending ridges with a gentleness and warmth that made our hearts soar. We planned to cross a stream and get to Manjhi before night fall but as luck would have it, the previous day’s rain made it dangerous to cross the stream. So, we had a relatively easy and shorter trek going 3km uphill and 1.5km downhill on a stony path.
Again, inclement weather prevented us from scaling Bakra top as dense fog covered every inch of it. Just before lunch, we crossed a breath-takingly beautiful mountain pass at 3500m that left us dizzy-eyed and breathless as we peered down. The exhilaration we felt, despite the thin air, carried us all the way to the second campsite at Gangoroo, surrounded by slate-grey rocks. In the distance, the Kaala Nag peak - christened so because it resembles a cobra’s head, stood tall amidst crests of mountains while providing stirring muse to writers and photographers.
The third day started at 5am and was going to be the longest day of trekking since we had to cover the distance from the previous day. The 6km steep downhill hike was excruciating on our knees and we were actually relieved when we started on an uphill trek for 6km after having crossed the stream. Every turn in the path opened up new vistas with deep valleys covered with copses of oak and fir and towering peaks of snow and stone. The popular route from Sangamchatti takes you directly to Dodital and we caught up with this path 5 km from Dodital. This last section was a flatter route and by 6pm, in fading light, we made it to Dodital triumphant after 17km of cattle-like prodding by our experienced guide!
Dodi Tal:
Dodi tal (“tal” means lake in Hindi) is a high-altitude lake situated at a height of 3045m and 21km from Sangamchatti. The glassy lake is famed for its rainbow trout (fishing is not allowed without prior permission from the forest officer) and is fringed by copses of oak, rhododendron and bhojpatra trees. In the evening sun, Dodi tal was a shimmering jewel bordered by sun-lit reflections of tall firs and the sounds of koklas, babblers, jungle crows, the bells of the Dodital temple and the gurgle of streams provided the perfect accompaniment to the stirring tranquillity. The long day ended on a high note with dessert of curd and fruit salad made with fresh, creamy milk from local buffalo and a dreamless, deep sleep in our warm tent.
Home:
Early on the last day, we bid farewell to the haven of Dodi tal and geared up for the 21km back to civilization a.k.a Sangamchatti. The gradual downhill walk was not exerting but the heat was stifling and intense as we got closer to the plains. Soon, the hills faded into the horizon and appeared as mounds of green velvet topped with generous dollops of misty clouds. As we drove back 15km to Uttarkashi, the terraced hills, rows of cement houses and the swollen Bhagirathi welcomed us back with their hushed tones of familiarity and calm.
